Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Ketchup!

Fancy Not-Silk Socks

Fancy Not-Silk Socks


Aren't they just beauteous! It's the Fancy Silk Sock pattern from Nancy Bush's Knitting Vintage Socks, knit in Araucania Ranco Solid. It's a perfect match of yarn and pattern. The yarn did give me some trouble when I was winding it, as did the other color that I also bought. I know it wasn't me, so either it was a weird batch, or they just do something really weird when winding their hanks which makes it hard to not get in a knotted mess when you ball it up. But I'm glad I persevered, because the yarn was worth it in the end. So let this be a warning -- the yarn is worth trying, but don't try to wind it when your patience or time is short.


And speaking of yarn that has its issues, how about a yarn with genuine issues, not just superficial winding issues? These socks were knit out of some of my earliest handspun. I have learned a lot since spinning that yarn, and one of the things I've learned is that sometimes there really can be too much of a good thing. The "good thing" in this case was twist. The yarn was spun and plied so tightly that it was very difficult to work with. It was simultaneously too ropey and too springy, coiling back on itself every chance it had. I was concerned that the socks would be garbage, but they actually turned out pretty nicely. At the very least, they should last longer than the cockroaches. (Wait, cockroaches will survive a nuclear Armageddon, but now we're all doing to die from Swine Flue or food shortages caused by global warming, right? Do cockroaches survive those things? Hmm.)

socks for Mom!


For all my complaining about my handspun, I like the socks, and I sent them to my mom. The yarn, by the way, is superwash merino. Indestructible, solid superwash merino, perhaps as dense as the center of a planetary body.


The antithesis of the superwash that is trying to pose as the black hole at the center of the Milky Way is polwarth. Polwarth is a soft and incredibly springy wool, mostly found (if I am correct) in Australia and New Zealand. David, over at Southern Cross Fibre, sells a lot of Polwarth, all dyed in the most perfect Australia-themed colorways. I think this colorway is called Uluru.

Polwarth

polwarth for Alex


It ended up as a sportweight yarn, even though I was aiming for fingering. It's one of those fibers that poofs up to something larger, no matter how thin you think you're spinning it. I'm not complaining, because the resulting yarn is incredibly soft and lofty, and the yardage I got from this skein, which was spun worsted style (short forward draw) was akin to what I'd get spinning woolen longdraw. Here are the socks I made from it, for Alex:

handspun socks for Alex

handspun socks for Alex




While I play blogger-catchup, I realize that I may not write about all the details I'd usually include. Stuff like wraps per inch, and exact yardage and weight for handspun, might get left out. But I have been pretty good about logging all that information in Ravelry, so if you're ever curious about the exact details of a yarn or knitting project, please check over there. My handspun can be found here and my knitting projects can be found here. I in no means plan to have Ravelry replace the blog, but I just want to let the geeks who want to know all the details have access to them, in case I leave things out on the blog. (Which I know I've done in this post.)

I have so much to post about. I made a list, with enough content for 5 meaty posts, including this one. Next up (I think): a couple of handspun scarves, spinning for lace, and a hat pattern preview.

Friday, April 17, 2009

A Corrie-Tale

My silence has been mighty, and for that I apologize. I have no excuse, other than the "perfect" blog post that I've been writing in my head for 2 months, but which hasn't seen a pen or paper or keyboard. So I will temporarily give up that ghost, and focus on other non-ghostly white fluffy things.

What I most want to share with you is my biggest spinning project to date, that I haven't posted about since it was in its beginning stages. The spinning is long done, and it deserves a blog post of its own.

Several months ago, I bought a few pounds of a wonderful corriedale fleece. I scoured it, combed it, and spun it up into a sweater's worth of yarn. I know I posted some photos of the early parts of this project, and here is a short photo essay of some other parts of the process, starting with beautiful clean locks, and ending with a mighty pile of handspun yarn.


the last of the locks
The last of the locks, ready for combing. This was a somewhat nostalgic photo for me, as it took so long to comb all of the wool. I enjoyed the process, and was a little sad to see the end of it.


Spinning Central
A photo of my combing workspace, looking neater than it usually does. You can see my combs (Alvin Ramer Super Mini Combs) clamped to the table on the left, a small basket of combed top on the right, and a lineup of full bobbins of singles in the back.


Combing Wool 1
These are locks, being prepared for combing. This is about how much I would put on my combs at once. I used the yellow camping towel (very absorbent) because I sprayed the locks with water (and a bit of wool wash with tea tree oil), to help prevent static electricity while combing.


Combing Wool 2
Locks lashed onto the comb, ready for combing.


Combing Wool 5
Locks after 3 passes of combing, ready to be pulled off the combs into top.


Combing Wool 8
Using a diz to pull top off the comb.


Combing Wool 10
The leftovers -- short bits that weren't long enough to come off the comb as part of the top. I erred on the side of leaving more behind, for a higher quality yarn with fewer nepps and short fibers.


Combing Wool 11
Hand combed top is a lot airier and more delicate than commercially prepped top. It's a pleasure to spin.


top
It may be impossible to have too many photos of this stuff!


bobbins
I kept my bobbins organized in chronological order, so I could mix them up in an organized fashion when I plied the yarn.


the whole thing
The (almost) final product. Six big skeins of 3 ply corriedale, worsted to aran weight. I am sending it off this weekend to be dyed, because I don't trust myself to dye this much yarn all in the same shade. (I just don't have a dye pot big enough!) What color will it be? Hmm, perhaps I'll keep that a surprise. But I have a little sample skein, and it's going to be awesome. More on that when it's done!



I am in love with the process of going from raw fleece to beautiful fluffy handspun in a quantity large enough for a sweater. So in love with that process, in fact, that I feel pretty dedicated to doing it a lot more in the future. I have already acquired two more fleeces -- a romney lamb's fleece in variegated colors, that I've almost finished scouring, and a CVM fleece in a brownish grey that will be up next for scouring. I'm hoping to acquire more raw wool at New Hampshire Sheep and Wool next month, and/or by ordering online from trusted farms. I don't plan to give up completely on commercially prepped stuff dyed in gorgeous colors by talented fiber artists, but I do plan to cut back. This Spring's fleece acquisitions are meant to sustain me for much of the next year, primarily for sweater knitting, but perhaps also for smaller projects. I've always admired gardeners who have the patience to plan for months and years ahead. I don't know if I'll ever be a great gardener, but harvesting these Spring fleeces feels much the same.

More soon, my friends. I promise.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

If you're cold, put on a hat!

(Not to contradict Brenda's wise tag line. I've just been a bit hat crazy lately.)

I have a lot of catch-up to do. I'm ashamed of how long ago I finished some of the hats in this post, but let's just say that I've been doing a thorough test-drive of some of them before blogging. You know, just in case...

I'll start out with the hats knit from yarn I bought, and then go on to hats knit from yarn I spun, along with information about the handspun. Thank the Fiber Goddess for Ravelry, which has become my supplemental fiber brain. At least I'm a bit better about putting information in there than I am about blogging in a timely matter, so that something is recorded somewhere when it's time to blog!



cloche

cloche


This is the Peek-a-Boo Cloche by Mona Schmidt, from the book Lace Style. The original pattern calls for a sportweight yarn (one of the Louet yarns, maybe?), but when I decided to knit this the colors of leftover Knitpicks Palette sitting in the drawer (from the Fair Isle with Vertical Stripes, from oh so long ago) were calling to me. Palette is a fingering weight, and not a very robust fingering weight at that, but I decided to give it a try. The lining of the hat is knit first, from the top down, so I figured that I'd know fairly quickly whether the yarn would work, and if I'd have to alter the pattern for a vastly different gauge. My head is on the small side, so I had a good feeling about the project, and it turned out that it worked just fine, without any size alterations. The hat is just the right size for my small head, but I wouldn't want the hat to be any smaller. (So copy me at your own risk!)




HabitatHabitat


This is Habitat, by Jared Flood. (I always want to say that it was designed by Franklin Habit. Yes, I know all knitting men are not the same person.) I wish I had a better photo of it, but the light was just not cooperating that day, and I haven't had a chance to get a better shot. Which is a shame, because Alex wears it a lot. It was a birthday gift 2 months ago, and I'm delighted with how often he wears it, and how much he seems to like it.

The yarn is Harrisville Highland, leftover from Alex's Cobblestone sweater, which he also wears often enough to make me very happy. Maybe it's lucky yarn, or maybe I'm getting better at knitting things to match his size and taste. (I wear the Rhapsody in Brown sweater more often than he does. It's a bit tight on him, and I can't seem to get a more severe blocking to take. It's a little big on me, but in that just perfect way that makes it incredibly cozy.)



And now onto the handspun. This first hat was quite the bargain. I bought the fiber at New Hampshire Sheep & Wool last May, and only paid $8 for the 4 oz. I believe it's Ashland Bay top, but I didn't realize it at the time. It's not a bad thing, though I feel a bit silly in retrospect, buying such widely available commercially prepped top at a local fiber event. It's 100% merino, and I carded it into rolags before spinning. I found that the fiber was a bit flat at first, and a couple of people suggested that I steam it, to put some life back into it, and re-awaken its merino crimp. That did help, and I was delighted with the soft, fluffy, and lofty yarn that resulted.

fluffy red merinofluffy red merino


As you can see, and as I think I mentioned in a previous post with yarn spun in a similar way (commercial top carded into rolags), you don't get a perfectly even yarn when you spin longdraw. Especially when it's from rolags, where the fibers are all jumbled together in a chaotic swirl. But I'm learning that knitted fabric can be very forgiving, and that most of the unevenness in yarns like this disappear when you knit them up. It's kind of magical, and only encourages me to spin longdraw more often. I hope seeing hats made from uneven woolen spun yarn gives some of you confidence to try it out, too.

The yarn is a 3 ply DK weight, 13 WPI, 105 grams, and 342 yards.

ShedirShedir


The hat is Shedir, by Jenna Wilson, from the Fall 2004 edition of Knitty. I wasn't sure at first that the yarn would work with this pattern, because such delicate crosses would seem to require the most perfect and even of yarns, to avoid getting lost in the texture of the yarn. But it turns out that slightly uneven handspun works well, too. The cables probably would have popped more if I used a worsted spun yarn, which would be smoother. But I like the subtle and soft look that the woolen yarn gives to the hat. This is my favorite hat, and I honestly can hardly believe that I made it from scratch.



These last two hats are also knit from handspun rolags. These rolags are from washed corriedale locks that I bought from Julie (jsandell on Ravelry) a while ago. Having worked with other corriedale since then, and having discussed the nature of these particular locks with her, I think I've come to the conclusion that this is not typical corriedale. In some ways it behaved more like a longwool would, in that it wasn't as crimpy, and had a very smooth feel to it. In retrospect, it was not the ideal fiber for rolags, since I've found that I prefer rolags and longdraw spinning with very crimpy fibers. But I made it work, and enjoyed the experience.

corriedale rolagswhite corriedale


That is about 550 yards of a 3 ply, 9 WPI yarn. It was all spun longdraw from the rolags, and wasn't quite as even as it looked. I don't think it was as even as the merino I spun up for the hat. Next, I dyed it:


hand carded/spun/dyed corriedalehand carded/spun/dyed corriedale


This was my first (and only, so far) experience dyeing anything, and I was happy with the results. It turned out darker than what I was going for, but I think the yarn was just perfect this way, so it was a happy accident.

I knit two hats with the yarn. The first hat was too big for the intended recipient, and the hat would just not shrink, no matter what I did to it. A very strange corriedale, indeed, as I'd expect most corriedale to full easily if given the opportunity. I think it was the relative lack of crimp in the yarn.

Jan's HatJan's Hat


This too-large hat is from Jared Flood's Turn A Square pattern. It's a beautiful hat (if I may toot my own horn), and I'm sure I'll be able to find someplace to donate it. Heck, I know it won't felt in the wash, so I bet that even charities that don't usually take wool (because of felting fears) could make good use of it!

I decided that my second try at a hat for Jan would not only be on smaller needles with slightly fewer stitches, but would also incorporate more of a ribbing-based pattern, for optimal fit flexibility. I decided on the spindle stitch pattern from Charlene Schurch's book More Sensational Knitted Socks.

Jan's Hat (for real)Jan's Hat (for real)


The hat fits her perfectly.


I do have one other hat that I've knit in the past few months, but I'm not blogging about that yet. That hat was also knit from fiber that I prepped (on combs) and spun myself, and uses a beautiful Barbara Walker stitch pattern. I did a ton of work designing a way to decrease the top of the hat in an unusual and interesting way that flows out of the intricate stitch pattern, and am probably going to submit the pattern to the Twist collective, for consideration for their Fall issue. Writing up that proposal is on my to-do list for this long weekend. I really wish I could share the photos with you, because I am immensely proud of the hat. This one was also for a co-worker (a Secret Santa gift), and luckily fit her perfectly on the first try. More on that another time, I suppose.


My spinning wheel has been incredibly busy so far this year. I have finished spinning the yarn for a sweater. That's how busy. More on that soon, I hope.


Oh, and in case anyone was wondering, Sophie was born the day after my last post, and is indeed an extraordinary little person. She has beautiful red hair and at least one dimple, and is so incredibly charming in photos that I fear I may be bowled completely over when I get to meet her in person. To my delight, the sweaters are a bit big on her, which means she gets to grow into them and wear them that much longer.

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Thursday, January 15, 2009

Baby Baby Baby!

Well, only one baby. A very good friend of mine, as I type this, is in a hospital in NYC, bouncing on a yoga ball, and trying to convince her daughter to join us here on the outside. C'mon kiddo! You can do it!

Of course, I have knit.


Baby Yours


Stephanie Pearl-McPhee's Baby Yours sweater, in Socks That Rock mediumweight.

Baby Yours


I've settled on the yellow buttons.



February Baby Sweater


Elizabeth Zimmermann's February Baby Sweater, also in Socks That Rock mediumweight.

February Baby Sweater


This button's twin will live on a project for me. (More about that in a future post.)



Really, there's not much more to say about the sweaters. Straightforward and beautiful, and I really do need to get them in the mail.

Watch out, world. All babies are special, but this one will be extraordinary. I promise.

Wednesday, January 07, 2009

Snow Day

It's my birthday, and the wintry mix outside meant that I got home from work early. What a treat! (I do enjoy work, but I also welcome surprise birthday early closings.)

As I wrote a few days ago, I have a long backlog of projects to share with you guys. But since this is a special day for me all around, I'm going to temporarily skip over the stuff that's done and write a bit about my two long-term ongoing projects, both of which I find quite pleasing and exciting.

I am delighted to be working on a sweater again, after a very long break from sweater knitting. Too long of a break, really. A few months ago I bought Lisa Lloyd's book A Fine Fleece, and promptly fell in love with just about every project in the book. It's a fantastically beautiful book, and everyone reading this should buy a copy. Immediately. (And if times are tight and you can't afford to splurge on a book, go look for it at your local library.) The idea behind the book is to provide knitters who spin with patterns for their own handspun. Each of the projects in the book (most of which are sweaters) are knit in both a commercially available yarn and a handspun yarn. The projects are tasteful and wearable, and full of just the right amount of texture. I have chosen, as my first project from the book, the Staghorn aran. I'm knitting it out of Cascade 220 Heathers, in the Sapphire color. Here's an old photo of the back, about halfway done:

Staghorn Aran


I just finished the back, and have started on the front. Arans take a long time to knit, with all of those cables, but I'm not yet bored or tired of knitting on this sweater. And best of all, it should be done in time for there to still be cold weather here in New Hampshire. Here's an artsy detail shot:

Staghorn Aran


Really, this book deserves a more thorough review, because it is that good. But I don't have the book in front of me, and I admit that I haven't read through all of the text yet, because I still haven't finished completely drinking in all of the patterns and the pattern photos. But it is rare for me to find a pattern book where I am so gaga over so many of the patterns. I can be very picky. And, well, I pick this book. It's probably my favorite pattern book, and that's saying a lot.


I did feel a little bad that my first sweater from the book was in millspun yarn. Not that there's anything necessarily wrong with millspun yarn, but it seemed a shame to have this book full of information about how to best use my handspun for a beautiful sweater, and to be taking the easy way out. But then Amy started the January '09 quarterly spin along in the Spinner Central group on Ravelry, and I knew my sweater's time had come. The goal of the spin along is to spin yarn for a cabled sweater during the first 3 months of 2009. I had all that beautiful corriedale that I washed, and decided to jump right in.

I'm not being as thorough about my yarn planning as many of the other participants of the spin along. I haven't chosen a sweater pattern, and don't plan to until my yarn is done. I am letting the fiber be what it wants to be, and will figure out what the yarn is best suited to later. I did know that I'd want to spin a 3 ply yarn, which is ideal for showing off texture, and I did a small sampling before starting to spin in earnest, just to make sure I liked the yarn I was making.

I'm working with combed top, which I have made myself. Actually, I've probably only combed about 1/3 of the fiber, so I'll have to take some spinning breaks to get the rest done. Here is a photo of just a bit of my combed top:

top


Isn't it heavenly! Spinning with hand combed top is much different than spinning with commercially prepped top. It is lighter and fluffier, and much easier for me to draft. I often pre-draft commercially prepped top, at least a little bit, because I find it unpleasant to work with very densely packed fiber. It would never even occur me to pre-draft my hand combed top. It is perfect as-is. I honestly wish I could send every spinner in the world a little muffin of combed top, so they could experience it first-hand.

I finished my first bobbin a few days ago. Here it is, in all its glory:


And so it begins.


I'm not sure how many bobbins I'll have in the end. I estimated 9, but it's hard to tell, because I honestly don't know how much fiber I have. I think I bought 3.5 pounds, but that was before it was scoured. It loses weight in scouring, and then there is a lot of combing waste. It might turn out to be a bit less than 9, but at the moment I really don't care. Mostly, I'm enjoying the spinning. I was concerned that I would get bored spinning this much white fiber, and while there's still plenty of time to get bored with the project, I'm cautiously optimistic. Most of my spinning projects are only 4 oz, total. Yet this first bobbin felt like a beginning, not an end. I'm about 2/3 of the way through my second bobbin, and I'm still very excited about the project. No boredom, yet!

In case you're interested in some technical info., I'm spinning my singles to match up to the 28 wraps per inch line on my spinner's control card. I don't find my spinner's control card to to be that accurate (I usually get a different wpi than it says I should for a given thickness of yarn), but that doesn't matter much. All I need to know is that my singles should match that particular line, so I can periodically check to make sure my singles are fairly consistent. I have three kinds of bobbins: the regular Schacht bobbins, WooLee Winder bobbins, and high speed Schacht bobbins. I plan to only spin on my regular Schacht bobbins, and re-wind all of my bobbins onto other bobbins for storage. I'll probably ply on my WooLee Winder bobbins.

I don't know if I'll be keeping the yarn white, or if I'll dye it. The idea of a white sweater makes me a little nervous (I'm not good at keeping clothing stain-free), but I'm not sure if I could dye a sweater's worth of yarn evenly, and I don't like the idea of having to alternate skeins every few rows of a knitting project. I probably should have dyed the fiber before I combed it, but it's too late for that. And I'm very reluctant to dye my combed top, because I suspect that it would lose a lot of its airiness if I did.



That's my exciting new stuff. I hope you all are also delving into exciting new things at the beginning of this new year. Or at the very least, enjoying the not so new things you may be working on.

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Thursday, January 01, 2009

You are in for a treat.

You are in for a treat, because I haven't blogged for 5 weeks, but I have continued to make things. Yesterday I flipped through my Flickr photos, and made a list of all the things I have yet to blog about. There is so much to share! Some of it still needs to be photographed, which is very hard for me to do in the winter, because I need to count on having a clear day with good sunlight on a weekend day. But I'm getting there, and am going to kick off what I hope will be a collection of somewhat more frequent catch-up posts with some plain old spinning. Yarn I've made, not attached to a specific project, not necessarily with an interesting background story or tales of techniques learned. Just some good old fashioned handspun.


Glowing and Squishy

Wensleydale Singles

Wensleydale Singles


The last of my small Hello Yarn fiber stash, this beautiful skein is Wensleydale Singles, in the Illuminated colorway. About 9 wpi, 116 g., and 202 yd., I'm thinking it will be great in a simple roll brim stockinette hat. It's very loosely spun, though I achieved that effect by running it back through the spinning wheel in the opposite direction, to take out some of the twist I put in when I first spun it. Worked like a charm! I haven't really thought much about this yarn since I spun it, but writing this up, I'm tempted to cast on for that hat today... perhaps even without swatching. Wild and crazy, I know.



This is the Yarn That Never Ends
(It just went on and on, my friends.)

green merino bobbin

green handspun merino


This is green merino, dyed by Crazy Monkey. I bought 8 oz. of it on a whim, and started spinning it on a whim. For some reason, finishing this spinning project felt like pulling teeth. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the fiber. It was all me. But it's done, and while it's not nearly my favorite yarn, ever, I think it will make great knee highs some day.

I admit, at one point I got so bored spinning it that I decided to spin some of it long draw, from the fold. Which is only a problem because that's not how most of it is spun, so obviously I had given up on any hope of getting a very uniform yarn. But at least it was a fun learning opportunity, bundled up in an inexplicably boring project. It is 17.5 wpi untensioned, 22.5 wpi tensioned, and feels like a heavy fingering weight. The skeins are not equal in size, but total up to 195 grams and 812 yards. More than enough for knee highs!



Yellow Is The Cure

Handspun Pulse BFL

Handspun Pulse BFL


I was feeling in a bit of a spinning slump, and the cure was to pull this Spunky Eclectic BFL top out of one of my fiber drawers. It had been a very long time since I spun with BFL, and I honestly don't know what I was waiting for. I still love the fiber, and the moment I started spinning it, I was already dreaming up the sweater I would knit out of handspun BFL, one day.

The yarn is a 3 ply light worsted weight, 12 wpi, 111 g., 178 yards. I was thinking of knitting a Koolhaas hat with it, though I'm not sure if the colors are too variegated for that. I might just start it, and then continue in plain ribbing (instead of the twisted stitch pattern) if it seems like that would be best.

For the record, the handspun BFL sweater I am dreaming of is in the Spunky Eclectic redwood colorway, and mostly stockinette. Perhaps turned hems, maybe using EZ's Seamless Hybrid pattern as a starting point? BFL tends to be fairly dense when spun up (at least the way I like to spin it) so something plain, without a lot of texture, seems to be the way to go. (Though I suspect there is also a natural colored, hand combed BFL sweater in my future. Grey or brown, with some cables here and there. Must keep my eye out for BFL fleeces this Spring...)



My Eyes Were Bigger Than My Stomach

spinning silk


I bought 4 oz. of beautiful hand dyed purple silk top from Julie Spins. It came in 2 ounce bundles, but I wanted more than that. The idea was to spin each bundle separately, and then ply them together for a 2 ply laceweight yarn.

I learned that spinning silk takes a lot of concentration. Julie's silk is gorgeous, but silk likes to fly away and bunch up and do all sorts of other things that wool doesn't tend to do. But the other good thing about silk is that a little goes a long way. I decided to stop after just short of 2 oz. I will ply this on itself, and I'm sure I'll have enough for something wonderful. The other 2+ ounces will sit around for a while, until I figure out what to do with it. At the moment, I'm thinking that it could be fun to blend with something. I bet a silk/wool blended batt would be easier to spin than straight silk. I don't have a drum carder, but I have been saving up pattern sale money for a while now, and perhaps I'll eventually use it (once I have enough, which could take a while) to buy a Strauch Petite. Or maybe I'll use it for heating fuel later this winter. We shall see!




Happy new year to everybody. It's nice to be back, and I just know that 2009 has to be better than 2008. (My year starts out with my birthday, then inauguration day, so things are looking up already!)

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Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Five Things That Make Me Happy

1. The pooling thread on Ravelry. This thread is full of really interesting and often quite beautiful photos of pooling and flashing in knitted and crocheted projects. Not only is it an informational thread, where you can get a better idea of how certain yarns may act in certain kinds of projects, but it's just plain good eye candy. You'll be amazed at some of the stuff yarn does, seemingly all on its own. Now that I think about it, some of it is even kind of creepy...

2. The Yarnspinner's Tales podcast. This is an incredibly informative podcast, though it should come with a warning label, because I'm convinced that it was the straw that broke the camel's back in terms of me learning how to process fiber. The first couple of episodes don't have the greatest sound quality, but it improves, and you should listen to all of them, anyway. If you have even the slightest interest in spinning and/or fiber processing, you should subscribe to this podcast immediately, and make sure to download and listen to all the back episodes.

3. Rolags and iMovie. I've learned how to make truly soft, squishy yarn. Fuzzy wuzzy cuddly yarn. And I also learned how to document it. Or rather, I documented it in the roughest of manners, using the built in camera on my MacBook, and doing the barest minimal in terms of editing. I made the rolags out of commercially prepped merino top, that was hand dyed by Freckleface Fibers. These videos show you how I did it:








(It's not really that loud when I card it. The mic picked up mostly the high pitched noises, which makes it sound like I'm mashing the teeth of the cards together. They lightly touch, but I'm not scraping or digging them into each other.)


And here's how I spun it:





And here is the lovely yarn:


woolen spun merino

woolen spun merino

woolen spun merino


366 yards
87 grams (after sampling, and not splitting it evenly)
13.5 wpi (DK weight)

This yarn is not as even as what I'd get with worsted / short forward draw. That's the nature of longdraw woolen spinning, and I'm at peace with that. Mostly. Actually, I didn't realize how comfortable I was with my technique and what I was producing until I made this video, because it forced me to stop scrutinizing every tiny detail of the yarn, and notice that I was mostly doing a great job, and mostly doing what I've see in other longdraw videos on YouTube. It was a great confidence booster, and I suggest video for everyone. It's really interesting to see your process from an outside angle.

I plan to do this a lot more in the future. Of course, it's a bit dangerous, because it's so quick. Doing short forward draw worsted style spinning, it's not too hard to keep up with knitting the stuff I'm spinning. Woolen spinning is so fast that I could never knit it as fast as I spin it. I admit, I've already been thinking about buying a pound of hand dyed merino top for a sweater. The yardage you get with woolen spinning is so great that that's all I'd need for something fairly plain, and maybe even for something with more texture. I LOVE this!


4. My stash. I love my stash because it's limited in size, yet has so much potential. There's some blue Cascade 220 for an aran, a couple of skeins of Noro for an awesome mitten design idea, a couple of skeins of mostly solid sock yarn, because that is somewhat of a staple yarn for me, and a whole bunch of handspun that is special because I made it. This is not a collection of stuff, but a collection of future endeavors and untapped creativity. It is a collection of potential energy, waiting to prance across my needles. The best kind of collection!

workspace


5. You guys. Thank you so much for the comments on my last post. I was a bit scared to post what I did, and almost immediatley had second thoughts about it after I did post it. I don't crave or even particularly want attention. At least not for negative things that none of us have any control over. The spirit and tone of your comments was absolutely perfect. Thank you all for not being too sappy, and for saying a lot of really intelligent things that made me smile, nod my head in agreement, and think a lot. This blog wouldn't be the same without the people who read it, and I'm not really a spiritual person, but I do feel that the energy of the readers makes a difference in a blog. At least for the person who is writing it. You guys have a great energy, great hearts, and great minds. I am a lucky blogger.

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Saturday, November 01, 2008

Don't worry, only the Monkey Socks are contagious

Thanks for the responses to my last post. I know that fiber prep is not of interest to everyone, but I'm glad to see that some people found it interesting, and perhaps even a little useful. I do plan to write some about carding and combing at some point, but that post probably won't be as in-depth, since they're very physical tasks that are probably better served by in person or video demonstrations. But I will at least talk a little about what I have learned, and will make a list of youtube videos that I found useful in my own learning process.

Today is back to basics. You know -- knit, purl, and all that jazz.

I have hopped on board the primate love train, and produced my very own pair of Monkey socks. How 2006 of me. ;-)

Handspun Monkeys


I used my own handspun for these socks -- a 2 ply heavy fingering weight merino, from top dyed by Freckleface Fibers. I think I mentioned when I posted about the finished yarn that I really adored spinning this fiber. It was a particularly bouncy merino, and made a nice bouncy yarn that was well suited to the Monkey pattern.

Handspun Monkeys


I didn't deviate too much from the pattern, but as you can see, opted for 2x2 ribbing at the cuff, and a slip stitch patterned heel, instead of stockinette. Other than that, they're pretty much pure Monkey. Thanks, Cookie, for writing such a cute little pattern! I can see now why it's so popular.

Handspun Monkeys


I have to admit that I had doubts about these socks the entire time I was knitting them. I actually started the pattern once before, with a yarn that was way too busy for them. I worried that this yarn was also too busy, but in the end I think the results are quite nice, even if it might take a knitter to truly appreciate these somewhat frantic looking socks. (Really, who wears socks like this other than knitters or the people knitters love?)


My recent focus has been on hats. Most of you don't know this, but I spent the summer undergoing chemo for Hodgkin's Lymphoma. (Don't worry -- I'm going to be fine, the worst of the treatment is over, and in a couple of weeks I'll be done with radiation, too!) The hair loss wasn't immediate, and wasn't complete, but by about a week ago I estimate that 80 - 90% of my hair was gone, so it time to just shave the rest off and have a fresh start. (Really, the zombie look is not flattering for anyone. Except maybe zombies.) This means that I've been doing a lot of hat knitting. And really, what's better for hats on a bald head than Malabrigo?

My first Malabrigo project was Norah Gaughan's Sunflower Tam, from the book Knitting Nature. I want to knit just about everything from that book, and this seemed like a good place to start.

Sunflower Tam

Sunflower Tam


This pattern is a lot of fun to knit. It's very cleverly designed, integrating decreases into the patterning at the top absolutely seamlessly. It's also very easy to knit, and I made it in just a few days, when I was home sick. Really, few things lift the spirits as well as buttery soft merino. I hadn't used Malabrigo in 4 years, since I knit a sweater out if it. (My second sweater, ever!) While it's not suitable for a sweater (softly spun merino singles pill very easily), it's now my very favorite hat yarn. And I think that, as long as I don't go around rubbing my head on things, the yarn should resist pilling when perched atop my head.


My other Malabrigo hat is Ysolda Teague's Gretel. It's funny that I chose to knit 2 berets when I've never worn a beret before, and am not convinced that I look particularly good in one. But there are so many beautiful and interesting beret patterns out there that I couldn't resist.

Gretel


This is also a cleverly designed hat, where the patterning integrates the decreases so that the top has a fluid and natural look to it. I wore it out today, and I could tell that it caught the eye of many people. Thank you, Ysolda, for such a beautiful pattern!

Gretel



If you are knitting chemo caps for someone you know, I think that both of these patterns are wonderful. And if you know you'll be knitting for someone who will not throw the hats in the washing machine, Malabrigo really is the softest thing I could imagine putting on my sensitive, naked scalp. I think that berets/tams work particularly well for chemo caps because they give the head some interest in terms of shape. Seeing your bald, round dome can be a bit startling at first, and you really realize how much of a difference hair makes in the dynamics of your head. More closely fitting hats are still great, and I have one in the works, but something that isn't shaped like your bald head feels great to wear when you are bald.

Another thing to keep in mind when making chemo caps is that hot flashes can be a side effect of chemo. Another advantage of more loosely fitting hats, like berets, is that they are insulating without being suffocating. I think they are a lot more comfortable to wear than traditional hats for someone whose temperature is fluctuating a lot. Though I am happily beyond that stage, and so pleased that I don't spend my day tearing things off my head, then scrambling to put them back on.

So that's my chemo cap wisdom for the day! I was reluctant to talk about the whole cancer thing here. Part of it was that, when I was going through chemo and not feeling well, chemo was really the last thing I wanted to talk about, ever. Now that the whole thing is almost over (radiation is like a walk in the park), it seems a little weird to bring it up. But with all this hat knitting, I suppose the topic was unavoidable.


Another reason I decided to finally talk about it is that, as a woman suffering from a kind of cancer that is not breast cancer, the past few months have been particularly frustrating. Not that I don't think breast cancer is terrible (all cancer is!), and not that I don't think support for people with breast cancer, either monetarily or personally, is not important. But when you are feeling sick, weak, and scared, and the source of those feelings is some other type of cancer, it can feel particularly isolating to be inundated with requests for breast cancer support and pink ribbons around every corner. Supporting breast cancer research is absolutely awesome, but if you're a person who has the desire and the money to make donations, consider veering at least some of your money to more general causes, such as the American Cancer Society. Or, heck, Amnesty International is also a great cause, because there is a lot of suffering in this world that is caused by things other than cancer! Obviously, my illness has made me a lot more sensitive about this issue than most people are. But even though I know it's illogical, when you're feeling terrible and all you see are pink ribbons, it's hard not to feel even worse because you have the uncool kind of cancer, and it's hard not to feel that society cares less about you than it does other cancer patients because the tumor is in your neck, and not your breasts. So, as my favorite presidential candidate would say, spread the wealth? ;-)

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Friday, October 24, 2008

Dr. Scourer or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Lanolin

(In which she goes on at great length about what she has learned washing wool.)

Part One: Babydoll Southdown

I started to write about my very first scouring experience, with some Babydoll Southdown I bought on Etsy. As I wrote, I realized that I forgot a lot of the details that might make my experience useful to others. So instead of going through what I did step by step (because I just can't), I'll just tell you what I learned from that experience.

1. Sheep are dirty. Really dirty. I remember that I did an initial soak in cooler water than I used for the scouring. (How cool? Beats me! How long? uh...) I've read in various places that an initial soak can get rid of a lot of the junk that's on a fleece, before you start focusing on getting the lanolin off later on. I'm not sure exactly what all was in that fleece to start off with, but I can tell you that it's a beautiful rusty orange color. And stinky.

2. Wool compacts a lot when soaked. Also, if you want to keep any semblance of order among the locks, you need to really stuff the bag full. I had the wool in a mesh laundry bag, and learned right away that putting some wool in a bag, and then putting that bag in a large container of water means that you just end up with a soggy jumble of stuff at the bottom of the bag. More on successful use of mesh bags later...

3. I don't like VM (vegetable matter). I spent a long time picking out the worst of it, but there was still a lot left. Picking it out seemed like a thankless task, and I fear that I may be one of those people who will seek out covered fleeces in the future.


In the end, I wasn't very satisfied with my experience scouring the Babydoll Southdown wool. In part probably because it was so full of VM, but also because it was hard to tell how clean I was getting it, because of the dark color. Of course, the only logical thing to do was to buy a "nicer" (this is all subjective of course) fleece. I was thinking of waiting until New Hampshire Sheep & Wool next spring, but as luck has it, Julie (the lovely jsandell on Ravelry) had some fleece she was thinking of selling, and I knew I could trust her to sell me quality stuff. (I had already bought some scoured Corriedale locks from her, in addition to some beautiful processed and hand dyed spinning fiber.) So I ordered 3.5 pounds of white corriedale that she said was particularly nice, confident that it would nice enough to be worthy my time scouring and then processing.


Part Two: 3.5 pounds of Corriedale

3.5 pounds sounds like a lot, but I wanted enough for a sweater, should I choose to use the fiber for such a large project. I knew it would be on the greasy side, which means that it would lose a lot of weight in washing. I was also pretty sure that I wanted to comb the fiber, which would mean a lot of waste. (More on that in a future post.) And after losing all that weight to washing and combing, I'd still want enough to be able to sample and play with, before starting to spin in earnest. And then I'd want enough to swatch with, once it was all spun up. See how quickly 3.5 pounds transforms from a huge amount of fiber to what I'm merely hoping would be enough for a sweater? Oh, and also calculated into those 3.5 pounds is fiber lost to human error, of which I wanted to anticipate a lot, since I was new to scouring fleeces and had never touched a pair of wool combs before. I am most certainly human, and have spent almost 32 years perfecting my ability to make errors of all varieties!

I chose the Corriedale because I knew it would be good for combing, I knew it would be at least a moderately soft fiber and suitable for a sweater, and because it was white. Just as I wouldn't wish fun fur on a new knitter because it makes it so hard to see your stitches, I thought a white fleece with good lock structure would be ideal for a new scourer. It would let me see my mistakes and successes a lot more clearly than a darker colored fleece.

My first scouring experiment was the Yarn Harlot's stovetop method. I actually had the "bright" idea to do it in the oven, for some reasons which now escape me, and other reasons which now make me feel stupid. (Do you know how inefficient an oven is at heating large containers of liquid? The answer is "very." This is why we have stoves, people!) I bought an undyed pillowcase, a huge bottle of blue Dawn dishwashing liquid, rubber gloves, a meat thermometer, and a big disposable roasting pan. I followed her method pretty closely (once I figured out that in the oven was not going to work well), and while I was fairly happy with the results, I wasn't all that fond of the process. It took a very long time, and I felt that the pillowcase prevented the water and detergent from penetrating the wool as well as I'd like. Similarly, I felt that it made it difficult to "rinse" the wool. I also didn't like the clumsiness of trying to drain a very hot pan of very hot water, while keeping the wool from falling into the sink.

At the time, I was also concerned that the tips of some of the locks, which were dirtier than the rest of the locks, were not coming clean. I later learned that this method actually did a pretty good job of cleaning the dirtier tips, but at the time I didn't have anything to compare it to, and had been unrealistically expecting absolute perfection.

I decided that my next try would be in the sink. I bought some smaller mesh laundry bags at Joann Fabrics -- small enough that I could fill them enough to keep the locks from all wanting to sink to the bottom of the bag, and small enough that they would fit well in the kitchen sink. As it turns out, I can perfectly fit two of them side by side in my kitchen sink, which works out very nicely.

I discovered that my hot water heater is not as adjustable as I'd like. I wanted water a lot hotter than 120 F (the hottest I can get our tap water) to scour the wool, so I decided to boil water in a huge pot on the stove, to add to the hottest tap water I could get. This yielded water about 150 F, which I was happy with. I've read anywhere from 110 - 180 as ideal for scouring wool, and have yet to find a real consensus on the matter. 150 seemed like a good compromise, and was fairly easily achievable for me. (Note: If you have small children or particularly forgetful or clumsy adults in your household, be cautious about turning up your hot water heater, lest anyone be scolded. Obviously, our hot water heater has anticipated this in not allowing me to turn it up to scolding temperature! I am most certainly a forgetful, clumsy adult, and am beaming proud that I've made it through this experience with no serious burns.)

My initial sink method went as follows: First, I separated locks of wool, and placed them with the tips all facing in the same direction in the small mesh bags. I had a few layers of locks, with nothing separating the layers. I would start filling the sink with the hottest tap water possible as my pot was close to boiling, add in the boiling water, and continue adding in tap water until it seemed like enough. (It's amazing how long it takes to boil a huge pot of water, and to fill a kitchen sink to just the halfway mark.) I then squirted enough Dawn in the water to make it turn a reasonable blue color, and gently stirred with a wooden spoon that was designated as fiber only. (I don't want to serve food with the same spoon that touches dirty wool water.) I then placed the bags in the sink, horizontally, so as not to disturb my carefully arranged locks. I gently pushed them down with the spoon, until they sank a bit under the water. I let them sit for 15-20 minutes, then carefully lifted them out, let them drip a good deal of water, and put them in the roasting pan (remember that thing?) while I drained the sink and waited until I had boiling water to repeat the process. (I filled the pot and put it on the stove as soon as I put the wool in the water, but it takes so long to boil that the wool got a good rest between each step.) I repeated this soapy soaking 2 more times. I found that on subsequent soakings, the wool packets were very reluctant to sink into the water. My first attempt to solve this problem was to put a couple of wire cooling racks (the kind you use for cookies) on the wool packets, put the roasting pan on top of that, and partially fill it with water, to weigh everything down. That was clumsy and difficult.

After the 3 washes, I did 3 soapless rinses, using the hottest water from the tap. Then I gently squeezed each wool packet, removed the contents, and left the wool on a mesh sweater rack to dry.

What did I learn from my first attempt at the kitchen sink method? I found that the tips didn't come as clean as in the stovetop method, and that cleaner wool floats more readily than dirtier wool. I also learned that one must exercise patience when it comes to wet wool, because separating those layers of locks was a lot easier once it had dried a bit. Before it dried, it just seemed like a matted mess, even though I am now confident that I didn't felt a thing. This reminds me of an episode of Cast On, in which Brenda talks about the urge to toss a lace shawl that she has just washed in preparation for blocking, because it looks like such a hopeless messy pile of stuff. Raw wool is a lot like that. When you pull it out of the water, you can't quite believe what you just did to it, and just have to have faith that, really, it's okay. Think of what your hair looks like when wet. It really does get better.

I found advice somewhere online that picking apart dirty tips before washing can help them get clean, because they'll be more open, allowing the water and detergent to penetrate better. For my next batch, I did this. It was a very labor intensive process -- it took me an hour and a half to prepare just one of the two small mesh bags for scouring. However, the tips did come cleaner, using an otherwise identical process. But I wasn't convinced that it was absolutely worth the time investment, so I tried hand carding one of the "dirtier" locks (none of them were really that dirty) from the previous batch, and found that the resulting rolag was white and fluffy and beautiful. I wouldn't have known that it had a dirty tip, possibly because combing it helped eliminate some of the dirt particles that were stuck in it. Another new thing I did with this batch was to place pieces of tulle between the layers of locks, to keep them more separated. I stole the idea from Sock Pr0n, and it worked beautifully. I also added some wool wash to the last rinse, to add a light scent (of tea tree oil) to the locks, and to hopefully add in some oils, so they wouldn't be too dry from all the scouring.

I had hoped to try washing the rest of what I had left (which felt like a lot) in one or two batches, in a larger mesh bag in the bathtub. But I was unable to get my tap water temperature as hot as I'd like, and did not feel comfortable carrying a huge pot of boiling water from the kitchen to the bathroom. (I already feel that I'm partaking in a dangerous activity by carrying it a couple of feet from the stove to the kitchen sink!) And then I couldn't find my bigger mesh bag. So I decided to try the sink again, but with a twist. After my hour and a half tip picking prep with the previous batch, I read other advice suggesting that a good long soaking can also help open and soften dirty tips, making any subsequent washing more efficient and effective. So I carefully stuffed my 2 smaller mesh bags (again using layers of tulle to separate the layers of locks), and let them soak for a few hours in warm water. As with my initial soak of the Babydoll Southdown, I ended up with rusty orange water. I still don't understand how I could get such bright water from such light colored locks, but it's pretty cool. Here's a photo:

wool water


The rest of the process was the same as the other sink washes, except that I decided to do only 2 washes and rinses. The only reason I had been doing three before was to try to get those tips clean, and since I knew that even slightly dirty tips would yield very nice processed wool, I decided to stop obsessing. I also flipped the bags over halfway through each 20 minute session, to overcome any problems caused by its tendency to float. The soaking method worked very nicely, and I think the tips even came a bit cleaner than with the very time consuming picking method. I also started rolling and gently squeezing the bags between each wash, to get as much dirty water out as possible. This will probably be my method from here on out.

To recap, here are the supplies and procedure for the method that works for me. This method may not be best for everyone or for every fleece, but I'm pretty happy with it as a way to scour small to medium sized batches of greasy wool, while maintaining lock structure for combing:

* 1 large kitchen sink
* 1 pair of rubber gloves
* 1 large roasting pan, or other container to hold the bags of fleece while the sink is draining or being refilled
* 1 large wooden spoon, or other stirring implement
* One or two small mesh bags of the sort they sell for washing delicates in a washing machine. I picked mine up at Joann Fabrics.
* One huge pot for boiling water (if you can't turn up your hot water heater, or don't want to because you have small children in the house)
* A yard or so of tulle. I totally overbought, but it's dirt cheap. I had a few choices, and went for the variety with larger holes, and chose white, so there would be no risk of dye bleeding onto my wool.
* scissors to cut the tulle
* A meat or candy thermometer, to check on the temperature of your water. This can be very handy, when you feel that your huge pot of water is about to boil, but aren't sure. I have more than once checked with the thermometer, found that it was already at 206 F (boiling is 212), and decided to just stop waiting and dump it in the sink. Close enough! I watched pot may never boil, but with a thermometer I don't really need it to.
* A large container of blue Dawn dishwashing liquid. (There are other detergents that will work, but this is a popular one, and is easy for me to find at the grocery store.)
* Some no-rinse wool wash, to add to your final rinse.
* A space to lay out the wool to dry.
* A kitchen timer, so you don't forget your wool. (You don't want to leave it in for too long, because the lanolin will redeposit itself onto the wool if the water cools down too much!)

Stuff your bags with wool. If you plan to comb the wool, try to keep it neatly arranged, with layers of tulle between layers of wool. Fill the sink at least halfway, and let the wool soak for at least a couple of hours. (Overnight works well.) Drain the sink, put the wool somewhere (roasting pan, for example) to wait, and fill your sink with very hot water. (I aim for 140-150 F, using boiling water to supplement the tap.) Add in some Dawn, stir, then put in your wool. Set your timer for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, flip the wool, then let it sit for 10 more minutes. Drain the water, gently squeeze the wool packets, set them aside, and repeat. (If your wool is fairly clean and non greasy, you may not need to repeat. If it's particularly dirt and greasy, you may want to do this three times instead of two.) Next, fill the sink at least halfway with hot water from the tap. It doesn't need to be as hot as the wash water. Let it soak for a good long while, flipping it partway through. Drain, gently squeeze wool packets, and repeat, with slightly cooler water, and a little bit of wool wash. Drain, squeeze your wool, and lay it out in a quiet, sunny (if possible) spot to dry, removing it from the bags and separating the layers, so it will dry more quickly. Unless you're in the desert, count on letting it sit at least a few days. (I find that I only have time to do this once a week or so, so I'll just let it sit for a week or more on the enclosed back porch, until I do the next batch.)

Here are some photos of the magic of scouring:

clean, dirty

three bags full



I hope my bumblings as a new wool scourer are helpful to some of you! Thank you so much to the people who answered questions, exchanged ideas, and generally listened to my ramblings as I was finding my way through this process. (In particular, Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, who generously answered an email in the midst of traveling, and the folks in the Fiber Prep group on Ravelry, which is an amazing resource for anyone thinking of doing any sort of fiber prep.)

I am planning a future post about hand carding and combing fiber. I also have some finished objects to blog about, once I have my photos all together. Again, let me know if you have any fiber prep (or other) questions. I'm really enjoying it, and want to do all I can to convince more of you to try it out.

Sunday, October 05, 2008

simple gifts

I've been knitting a lot lately, and it feels so nice to have some finished objects to share. I'll keep it to the two that are gifts, and going out in the mail today.


First, there are the legwarmers for a wonderful kid who just turned four, and who needs something stripey and soft and funky to add to her wardrobe. Her mom often lets her choose her own outfits, and her style leans toward eclectic and layered, so I have confidence that these legwarmers will fit right in.

Shoshanna's legwarmers

Shoshanna's legwarmers


These things are super simple -- cast on, work 2x2 ribbing for a bit, and then bind off. They yarn is my own handspun, from a BMFA Sheep 2 Shoe kit in the lapis colorway. It's a worsted weight yarn, and a superwash merino, so it should be soft on her legs, and easily washable. I spun and plied it fairly tightly, so I think the legwarmers should wear well. And I think I managed to cast on the right number of stitches so that they won't slouch too much now, but enough that they will grow as she does. I can actually stretch these over my legs, though of course they're pretty short on me.

I'm hoping there will be some modeled shot to link to soon, when super four year old receives her somewhat late birthday gift.


My other finished project is actually a commissioned project, as a gift for a friend of my mom.

Shetland Triangle


This is the Shetland Triangle, designed by Evelyn Clark, from Wrap Style. I've been eyeing this pattern for a long time, and finally bought the book during the last Interweave Press hurt book sale. It's the only pattern in the book I knew I wanted to make, and the book was discounted to less than the price I'd pay for a copy of just one pattern, so I figured it was definitely a good time to buy!

I used Reynolds Whiskey for this pattern. It seemed like a good match for the pattern, not only because I happened to have some, but because like the pattern it's a yarn I've been wanting to work with for a while. It's a fluffy and light sportweight yarn that comes in deeply heathered colors. I really liked working with it, and am probably going to use what I have leftover for a big EZ Pi Shawl, at some point.

What I really love about the Shetland Triangle is the background. For me, this lace pattern isn't about the holes, but about what the increases and decreases do to the flow of the stockinette background. I think I captured that pretty well in the above photo. I just adore how the stitches gently curve in and out. I think I'm eventually going to have to make one of these for me. If you want a couple more photos, you can find them here and here. The second photo shows the entirety of the shawl -- not a great photo (it's hard to artfully capture such a large thing in one shot), but I'd feel bad about not having a shot that isn't a closeup.



That's about it for now. But I have been doing a lot of fleece washing, and have a lot to talk about at some point. I've learned a ton, and can't wait to share my learning process with you guys. I've also been doing some spinning, including some new to me fibers. I have a gorgeous skein of loosely spun thick Wensleydale singles, and just started on some bombyx silk top this morning. yum. Great things to come!

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